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February 24, 2010

Beyond Nat Geo: Discovering the Tarahumara

In the recesses of the Sierra Madre Mountains in Northwestern Mexico lies the Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon), a natural wonder considered to be yet more spectacular and raw than the Grand Canyon. It is in the gorges, twists and bends of the Barranca del Cobre that the Tarahumara keep their ancient customs and rituals alive.

Legendary for their winged feet, these reclusive people decide who will see them and who will not. With ancient blood coursing through their veins, the Tarahumara live much like their ancestors did more than 2,000 years ago in adobe huts and even caves.

National Geographic published a most compelling article about these indigenous people, also known as the Rarámuri in November of 2008 (A People Apart). But, this March, I will delve yet deeper. I will take to the trails with these legendary runners to get to the heart of their culture. The famed gringo devil and Caballo Blanco (White Horse) will be my guides…

I have compiled notes from those whove gone before me as I prepare for this next adventure. You can read the collection of excerpts on my personal website by clicking the links below:

Mind Scraps: The Legendary Tarahumara

Mind Scraps: Bound for Mexico

The excitement begins when arrive in Chihuahua, MX Saturday, February 27th.

Be sure to check back soon to follow my adventure…

October 11, 2009

Phang Nga Sea Safari -stunningly beautiful South Thailand

Phang Nga Bay Sea Safari

by Simon Ramsden

A walk across the street takes us away from Ao Nang’s bustle and past the food stalls selling barbecued chicken and papaya salad. We clamber onto the traditional longtail boat and head for a shimmering, turquoise-blue waterway, en route to one of Thailand’s most tranquil islands, Koh Yao Noi. We’re not going to hurry there, though, as it would be rather silly to rush across one of the most beautiful bays on the planet.

If the celestial powers had travel-sense it would be deemed a sin to come to the Andaman coast of Thailand and not see the Hong Islands – an archipelago of towering limestone karsts jutting vertically out of the water and looming above us as we cruise Phang Nga bay. We soon find ourselves meandering towards one of the bay’s many hidden beaches, on Koh Lading (‘paradise island’ in Thai). This is a small but picturesquely lovely stretch of white sand approached across emerald waters, gliding just a metre above a placid coral reef. We slowly approach the bleached-white beach with its giant coconut trees and its lush jungle backdrop, not wishing to disturb the tranquility by using the boat’s engine too much.

There are a few tourists scattered about, lounging on the warm sand or snorkelling with the fish, quietly contemplating and complementing the peaceful scene we have encountered. All is serenity until the moment we spot the ‘bouldering’ wall, our eyes lighting up as we size up another of nature’s playgrounds. It looks like a worthy challenge for us to measure ourselves against, its sharp, over-hanging limestone walls and stalactites creating all sorts of contortionist challenges (or ‘problems’ in climbing jargon).
IMAGE 4

I am surprised to hear that this bouldering wall is actually judged to be a relatively easy one, as it looks really difficult to me. Bouldering is a rope-free variation of rock climbing, where the climber sheds his gear and keeps only his rubber shoes and chalk-bag (and his shorts unless he really wants to show off). When the climber falls off the soft beach cushions his fall – unless the climber ascends too high, bouldering is as safe as a walk in a park. It is also an extreme work-out for the upper body in which it is easy to damage tendons and sinews.

My climbing partner Fon manoeuvres left to right and up and down with yogic bodily contortions, body held nearly parallel to the ground. A handful of day-trippers relaxing on the beach watch, in puzzled but idle amusement, no doubt wondering why anybody would bother to exert themselves in such an extreme fashion in such a relaxing place. Fon moves with feminine agility and poise and is made to look even more graceful by comparison with me, her slightly superannuated Western male climbing companion. I seem to be not so much rock climbing as rock-falling-offing – this thankfully doesn’t hurt, due to Thailand’s soft sand cushioning my frequent falls. After a while Fon is glowing with perspiration, whilst I have virtually turned into a human waterfall. Thankfully the welcomingly cool sea is just a step away.

Wary of the sea urchins nesting on the reef’s floor we float on life jackets to the other side of the bay and find ourselves peering through windows of rocks out onto the myriad islands rearing sheer out of the shallow but deep blue water of Thailand’s Andaman Sea. Back in the boat, our boatman is unsure if the tide is too low for us to be able to get into the Hong lagoon. As the long-tail boat’s engine fades to a stop we creep around the corner and see the opening to the lagoon, seemingly guarded by a solitary bird standing in the water. The boat drifts until it rests in the sand and there we are, standing in the middle of an enormous lagoon encompassed by rock buttresses on all sides, like worshippers in the nave of a vast karst cathedral. One massive stalactite is suspended overhead, dripping with pure mineral water and donating a sweet afternoon drink and shower. The Hong archipelago, the second stop on our island-hopping Andaman Sea safari, is an archetypical tropical paradise.

We leave the lagoon in search of a clandestine beach to melt into for a while before travelling on to Koh Yao Noi. It doesn’t take long to find a completely deserted bay, where we collapse and take naps in the shade of the trees – there are no suitable rocks around for us to play on. In the shallows a large monitor lizard takes the plunge and swims past our boat, its family of three concealed by the rocks and waiting for it across the bay, revealing themselves as it approaches.

Arriving on Koh Yao Noi, we receive what is almost door-to-door service, but would be better described as beach-front to beach-front service, as the boat comes to a halt on the beach directly in front of our resort. We are greeted with sweet welcome drinks as we absorb the tranquil beauty of the Koh Yao Island Resort, at the northern end of the island. Large coconut and palm trees stand on the bright green grass, shading the luxury bungalows. Each chalet faces the resort’s private beach, with its view of the islands further away outlined in differing shades of blue. The silhouettes of nearby islands are superimposed on those of islands in the middle distance, with both sets of silhouettes superimposed on the outlines of islands further away. Each of the three sets of silhouettes is a different shade of blue, creating the most beautiful island tableaux this author has ever seen.

Our hotel is all that you would expect of a tropical beach resort in Thailand. Crisp white linen sheets adorned with tropical flowers decorate an oversized bed. An outdoor shower is made private with natural stone tiles piled high, and a separate living room is mostly enclosed by sheer drapes, shimmering in the moonlight and creating a scene of such serenity that I stop for a second to savour the moment. The resort provides us with motorbikes and we follow the dirt road to Thakao Seafood Restaurant for a veritable feast – and for less than the price of a McDonald’s back home. Banana flower salad, vegetables fried in oyster sauce and fresh fish are the prefect end to a day on the water.

After a leisurely-spent morning sunning ourselves by the pool and sipping fruit shakes we are back in the boat with ropes and gear in tow, eager for an afternoon of climbing and photography. We stop at the pier to pick up lunch, fried rice wrapped in banana leaves, then race to get onto the rock-climbing routes. The boatman pulls up to a spindly wooden ladder leading to a bamboo platform that sits at the bottom of the rock wall and provides spectators with a comfortable viewpoint to watch the action.

Soon I am ready to climb. As I rise higher and higher the panoramic view of all the islands and lagoons becomes even more immense and my beloved cousin Diana, bobbing up and down in the water below, becomes smaller and smaller. This rock-face has arguably the second most beautiful view in Thailand, after Railay’s incomparable Thaiwand Wall. There is also a fair mixture of grades, so it is a good destination for the relative novice as well as for the expert crag-hanger. Complete beginners are recommended, before coming to Koh Yao Noi, to spend three days learning to climb on nearby Railay.

After the climbing we pause on the boat journey back in order to watch a party of Western residents playing on a deep-water slack-line. This is a 4-centimetre-wide, 30- metre-long band stretched between 2 islands, which the person attempts to balance on while walking from one island to the next – and almost invariably fails to manage, ending up with a 6 metre drop into the sea and a swim back to the starting point. What is it about watching people accidentally falling into water which makes spectators feel so happy?

Koh Yao Noi – The Low Down

Looking for seclusion, endless stretches of untouched white sand beaches, a get-away with adventure and the ultimate in relaxation? Koh Yao Noi, Thailand is your destination. From exciting landscapes formed by limestone rocks, beautiful coral reefs and virgin beaches, Thailand’s Koh Yao Noi offers all you need for a tropical adventure or beach retreat

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THIS STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL TRIP CONTACT THE AUTHOR AT SIRAMSDEN@HOTMAIL.COM OR check out www.andamanadventures.com

February 7, 2007

Reno River Festival

4TH ANNUAL RENO RIVER FESTIVAL
RETURNS TO RENO’S TRUCKEE RIVER THIS SPRING
Festival Set For May 10-13, 2007

RENO, Nev. (Sept. 29, 2006) —The Reno River Festival is set for another year of world-class kayaking on the Truckee River in downtown Reno, Nev., May 10-13, 2007. Now in its 4th year, the Reno River Festival brings together top kayak professionals and amateur athletes from around the world to compete at the nationally acclaimed Truckee River Whitewater Park. The Reno River Festival showcases kayaking action at its best with a weekend full of competitions, demos, clinics and an expo featuring the hottest products on the market, all set in one of the most adventurous cities in the country – Reno-Tahoe, America’s Adventure Place.

“In just three short years, the Reno River Festival is now recognized in the kayaking industry as one of the premier, first-class events in the country,” said Jim Litchfield, Truckee River Whitewater Park designer and principal of Fluid Concepts, competition producer for the Reno River Festival. “Now, as we go into our fourth year, there’s huge expectation in the industry for the event each year and our hopes are to attract even more competitors as well as provide additional opportunities for participants of all levels to find a spot to compete while continuing to provide access to those that want to learn.”

According to Deanna Ashby, executive director of marketing for the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority (RSCVA), “The Reno River Festival is a great example of what our America’s Adventure Place message means and the event brings adventure to life right in the heart of downtown Reno. All just steps outside our hotel room doors. Spectators and competitors can expect amazing whitewater action with the addition of new events and competitions, as well as demos, instructional clinics and exhibitors.”

The Truckee River offers a dynamic water experience year-round and the Reno-Tahoe region provides many other adventure attractions including 24-hour gaming excitement, golf, skiing, hiking and biking trails, lakes and a selection of art museums and galleries, just minutes from downtown and the Reno-Tahoe International Airport.

For more details about the 4th annual Reno River Festival, please visit www.RenoRiverFestival.com. For more information about Reno-Tahoe, America’s Adventure Place log on to www.VisitRenoTahoe.com or call 800-FOR-RENO (800-367-7366).

The Reno River Festival is held at the city of Reno’s $1.5 million Truckee River Whitewater Park, located in the heart of Reno’s booming downtown business and arts district. The park, with rapids rated class 2 and 3, is both Nevada’s and the region’s first whitewater park and kayak slalom racing course, totaling 2,600 feet in length and featuring north and south channels that surround an outdoor amphitheater and park. There are 11 “drop pools” and specially-placed boulders for kayaking maneuvers, a slalom racing course, and 7,000 tons of smooth flat rocks along the shores for easy river access and spectator seating.

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January 31, 2007

yeah

I am happy to read about your adventures but I am even more excited that someone is actually posting here! I had about given up! Write on.

August 31, 2006

Three Places I Want to Go RIGHT NOW!!!

I have a map of the world sitting above the computer in my office, and for a good 20% of my time I’m staring at it, wondering whats going on… there. Maybe its the human need to get out and explore, or maybe its the energy drinks forcing my blood to move faster than is probably good, but I can’t stop form twitching at least a little bit every day, thinking of where, if everything were perfect, I would go.

And today I feel like sharing – hooray! Lets all hold hands and share. No, lets not. Lets just see where this daydreaming takes me, on the perfect mind trek for the office rut:

  • Silverton, CO – because its there, its new, and I’ve heard its pretty much the greatest thing going in skiing today (well, not today, maybe in a few months). Pefect powder, 50% grades, about 2,000 acres and a max of 80 people a day? Sweet. Now all I need is $15,000 to buy one of their limited-time Lifetime Passes!
  • Dubai, U.A.E. – Why not? They’re building new worlds out in the desert, literally, and I’d like to see an indoor arctic at least once in my life. And something tells me that with a little cash the place would rule – and I really dig sand, so I think the place would be a blast. Well, not a real blast, but – you know.
  • Kyrgyzstan – Nope, can’t get much more isloated than Kyrgyzstan. Triple land locked, smack in the middle of Asia, with 5 of the world’s 12 tallest peaks and lakes and, and, and what? I don’t know. No one seems to know, and thats why I want to go.

So there it is, thats where I’d go on this strange Thursday afternoon. And in the spirit of sharing, however lame, why not reply to this post and tell us where you’d want to go. Stare at a map and get weird for a while. hut I’ll be hiding behind the dome!

August 28, 2006

From Iron to Green Belt in 18 Years

I always thought the Iron Curtain was a symbolic allusion to the USSR blocking out western influences – I just learned it was at an actual, physical fence. I’ve also just gotten word that soon enough us avid endurance hiking, biking, walking, and running beasts will be able to groove all up and down the entire 6,800 kilometer ( about 4,000 miles, according to my Hungarian Source) length of the thing, made possible by a new, multi-national initiatve daintily called The Green Belt.

Earlier this month, the first 15-km strecth of the Green Belt officially opened in north-west Hungary, and with #1 patron Mikhail Gorbachev leading the push you can be sure the rest of the track will be finished and we will all be able to propel ourselves from the Black to the Barents in no time!

But what does this mean for America? How is this trail different from our mega-pathways? For starters, there is history involved, and historical markers will be in place everywhere. So you’ll learn while you’re getting fit and losing consciousness from months and months on the belt. Oh yes, 4,000 miles is a beefy path indeed – the Appalachian Trail is a meager 2,167 miles, and the Great Wall of China weighs in at anywhere between 1,500 and 4,000 miles, depending on who you talk to. Suffice to say the thing is long, and the Iron Curtain will hopefully be forever remembered as a new bar in the annals of endurance trekking, and a great use of International border stupidity. So it looks like its our turn to up the ante – I’m thinking Cancun to Nome, 4,571 miles as the Bald Eagle flies, just put the thing out of reach and make those Euros dream envious dreams from their tiny pseudo-continent. curtain

August 23, 2006

Whistler? Lets Hear it for Squamish!

When I think skiing, when I think outdoor adventures and getting my mile-high freak on, and when I’m forced to think British Columbia, I think Whistler – of course. But I just went to a wedding up in the north lands, and discovered something better than Whistler. I discovered Squamish – and want to share this newfound x-treme pad with the Stellar world.

Anyone who’s been to Whistler has been to Squamish – you can’t miss it, its right on the Sea To Sky highway between Whister and…and basically everything else. There is a car dealership, a few fast food restraurants, a tiny downtown and outlying neighborhoods. There is a country club. And a golf course. And enough mountains, cliffs, peaks, year-round snow, ocean access, rivers, and just plain wild, open space to satisfy whatever your wandering soul desires. Squamish, in other words, is friggin awesome.

I was only in Squamish for three days, and the time I didn’t spend with the wedding party (an adventuresome duo and their ski-crazed chums, I was outside:

*I hiked straight up the side of a mountain, barefoot, to the top of the Stawamus Chief, with a view of piercing Garibaldi Peak which is reason enough to make a return trip.

*I took a lenghty dip at the northen limit of Howe Sound, playing around with some sea lions, bathing.

*I watched a world-class mountain bike team practice on a no-name hill (looked like fun).

*And everywhere I went I was eating blackberries right off the bush – which is a thrill when coming from Colorado’s destroyed Front Range.

And it was summer! Looking up at those peaks and into those valleys that even in August still had enough snow to ski, I could just imagine endless epic days trouncing up and down snow-decked hills, getting weird on some steeps with no one around for miles (kilometers, sorry) in every direction. It was perfect, Squamish as it is today is an ideal outdoor mountain town within striking distance of both Vancouver’s size and Whistler’s glitz…but that idealism is fading fast. People are moving in, making preparations for los Olympicos 2010 with a four lane highway and new developments springing up everywhere, ringing in the certain deathknell for the quiet perfection of Squamish, B.C.

But its still small, it’s still relatively unknown and there is enough space for everyone. Get to Squamish while the getting is good!squamish

August 17, 2006

The Great Bike Debate ( R vs. MB)

Whitney! Girl, you sure have stirred up the can of bees. Stand on a corner in Boulder, CO – any outdoors minded hamlet for that matter – asking your question, road or mountain bike, and you’re sure to get a violent, passionate, biased response from a huge number of two-wheeled, opinionated denizens.

So, whats it gonna be – road bike or mountain bike? There are plenty of reasons why to choose either, and after discussing the question with multiple enthisuasits and professioanls alike, I’d have to say…drum roll please… Mountain Biking! Oooo, but the saddle riders will be angry! And with their endurance, their speed induced psychoses, they’ll probably come after me with the lynch, or just run over my toes with their tiny, high-pressured wheels. But I stand by my mountain biking decision, and I’ll tell you why:

  • For starters, mountain biking is cheaper. A decent beginner road bike will run you about $1000, whereas a mountain bike will be about half that. And mountain bikers can get away with shirts, and maybe even basket pedals – road warring demands the entire uniform ( I know, I was laughed off a local biking thoroughfare for wearing a t-shirt and sandals – not fun).
  • Road biking demands roads, mountain biking doesn’t. You can go anywhere on a mountain bike – in the mountains, through a stream, over a small dirt patch in the road without worrying about slipping and scarring the entire right side of your face clean off. You can get injured on either, but road wounds are usually ugly, straining our health as well as our vanity.
  • Road bikers are a delicate, intense group, and if you aren’t with them you are against them. Even the semi-dedicated road biker goes to bed early, wakes up early, regulates their diets and dedicates their life to the wheel – is that the kind of lifestyle you want? Mountain bikers are a rowdy, crazy bunch who will invite you out into the hills and laugh when you fall off a rock.

It all depends on where you live though. If there are mountains, get a mountain bike. Roads everywhere? Click in and ride forever. But if you live in a place with both roads and mountains, why not both? Just begin with a mountain bike. Definitely. Give it another try. penny_Or you can try a pennyfarthing – wheeeeeee!_

August 16, 2006

Road or Mountain Biking?

So, I don’t really do either of these sports often. I used to have a mountain bike, and I can pretty much say that I HATED it! Which is better? What are the similarities? Should I even try road biking if I hated mountain biking so much?

Help me out!

Say Your Prayers, Buffalo

There are an estimated 3,500 American buffalo, bison, Bison bison, living in Yellowstone National Park, and 3,000 is the target population size. Uhh ohh, those buffalo have been busy! Too busy according to some. An extra 500 wouldn’t be a problem if the Yellowstone herd didn’t carry the cattle-bashing disease brucellosis, which doesn’t kill cattle necessarily, but it makes them lazy, tarnishes their coats, and has been known to cause abortions. Which wouldn’t be good for the sprightly, beautiful, conservative cattle in the ranges surrounding Yellowstone, and rangers want the problem contained. Eradicated.

The solution: Issue more bison hunting licenses and gun down the buffalo that wander north into Montana this winter. Focus firepower on the vacationing cows, kill off the wombs before they can generate more disease-carrying youths. When we say “more” licenses we mean triple the amount of licenses as were issued in 2005 – the kill fest is on.

Buffalo! Run for the hills! Huddle up beside a gyser and wait until spring. The bacteria in your gut puts you right in the crosshairs – we killed you off before and we’ll do it again! Sure, you make the biggest national park that much better – with your charges, your lazy road crossings, your lust for sulfer vents – but that doesn’t mean you own the place. A Japanese corporate conglomerate is the real king, and nearby ranchers the lynch mob of justice. Just toe that line, your filthy disease carrying ungulates, or we will make you toe that line. Bang! Bang!bison
The Real American Hero.